Modern Pilgrimage in Japan: A Spiritual Journey Through Buddhist Temples

A growing number of foreign travelers are trading souvenir shops and city lights for sandals and prayer beads. In Japan, a centuries-old Buddhist pilgrimage is quietly drawing modern seekers: the Shikoku Henro.

What is the Shikoku Pilgrimage?

The Shikoku Pilgrimage, known as "Shikoku Henro" in Japanese, is a circular route that connects 88 Buddhist temples across the island of Shikoku. Spanning over 1,200 kilometers, it traditionally takes 30 to 60 days to walk. Pilgrims, called ohenro-san, often wear white clothing, straw hats, and carry a wooden staff inscribed with the phrase "Dōgyō Ninin" ("Two traveling together"), symbolizing that they walk with the spirit of Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi), the founder of Shingon Buddhism.

Why Do People Walk It Today?

While historically rooted in religious devotion, today's pilgrims come for a variety of reasons. Some seek spiritual clarity, others a physical challenge, and many look for a way to unplug from modern life. For foreigners, it is a unique opportunity to connect with Japan's spiritual heritage and natural beauty. Walking becomes a form of meditation, and the simplicity of daily rituals—visiting temples, reciting sutras, receiving temple stamps—brings a surprising sense of peace.

What Do You Experience Along the Way?

Pilgrims traverse coastlines, forests, rice fields, and mountain trails. Each temple offers a quiet moment of reflection and a connection to centuries of history. Local residents often offer osettai—free gifts like snacks or drinks—as a gesture of support. This interaction between locals and pilgrims creates a warm, human side to the journey that transcends language.

Spiritual Meaning Behind the Journey

The pilgrimage is often seen as a metaphor for the Buddhist path itself. Traditionally, the journey is divided into three stages:

• Hosshin (Awakening of the Mind) – Temples 1–23
• Shugyō (Spiritual Discipline) – Temples 24–39
• Bodhi (Enlightenment) – Temples 40–88

These stages mirror the inner transformation that pilgrims may undergo as they walk.

Practical Information for Pilgrims

How Do People Travel the Pilgrimage?

• On Foot: The traditional and most spiritual method. Walking the entire route takes 30–60 days, depending on your pace. Many pilgrims walk only a section.
• By Bicycle or Car: Popular alternatives for those with limited time. It's possible to drive to each temple, and parking is available.
• By Tour Bus: Some companies offer guided tours that cover major temples, ideal for those short on time or with mobility concerns.

Where Do Pilgrims Stay?

• Shukubō (Temple Lodging): Some temples offer lodging, often with simple meals and a chance to join morning prayers.
• Henro Lodging (Henroya): Guesthouses and inns along the route that specifically cater to pilgrims.
• Business Hotels & Ryokan: Available in larger towns and cities.
• Camping: Some pilgrims choose to camp, but it's less common and requires planning.

How Much Does It Cost?

• Walking the full route typically costs around 3,000–8,000 yen per day, depending on your lodging and food choices.
• The nokyōchō (temple stamp book) costs about 2,000 yen. Each temple stamp (called goshuin) costs 300 yen.

What to Pack

• Comfortable walking shoes, rain gear, sunscreen, hat
• Nokyōchō (stamp book), cash (many places don’t accept cards)
• A small backpack, reusable water bottle, translation app

Tips for First-Time Pilgrims

• Start at Temple 1 (Ryōzanji), but you can begin anywhere on the circuit.
• Best seasons: Spring and autumn offer mild weather and beautiful scenery.
• Bring: Comfortable shoes, rain gear, a nokyōchō (stamp book), and an open heart.
• Respect: Even if you're not religious, follow temple etiquette—bowing, washing hands, and being quiet.
• Language: While signage is improving, a phrasebook or translation app can be helpful.

Conclusion: A Journey Both Inward and Outward

You don’t need to be religious to embark on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Whether you're walking for healing, reflection, or adventure, the path offers something intangible: a return to presence. In Japan, where modern and ancient coexist, this spiritual journey is not only about reaching the 88th temple, but about discovering what you carry with you—and what you leave behind—along the way.